Damage codes A1, U2, W1: auction sheet map decoded

Every scratch and dent on a Japanese auction sheet has a code. Learn a handful of them and you’ll start reading the diagram like a map, not a mystery. The system is simple: the letter tells you the type of damage, the number tells you how serious it is, and the place where the inspector drew the mark on the car outline tells you where it is.

This guide breaks down the most common damage codes — A1, U2, W1 and their neighbours — so you can decide faster whether a car is worth bidding on.

What the auction sheet diagram and symbols actually show

The diagram is a flat outline of the car, usually viewed from above and from the sides. The inspector writes a code right on the panel where the damage is. Each code is a letter plus a number. The letter is the type of damage. The number is the size or severity on a scale of 1 to 3: 1 is small, 2 is medium, 3 is large. In normal practice you won’t see a number higher than 3 — A1–A3, U1–U3 and so on.

Most auction houses use close variations of this system. The marks might look slightly different on a USS sheet or a JU sheet, but the core idea stays: letter = what, number = how bad, position on the drawing = where.

Decode the letters: A, U, W

These three cover most of what you’ll see on a typical dealer-eligible car:

• A — scratches. A1 is a very small, light scratch you barely see unless you’re close; no repaint needed. A2 is a clearly visible scratch that may need polishing or a minor touch-up. A3 is a long or deep scratch; repaint recommended.
• U — dents. U1 is a tiny dent with no paint damage, often fixable with paintless dent repair (PDR). U2 is a visible dent that may need filler or repaint. U3 is a strong dent with deformation that needs bodywork and repaint.
• W — repair wave and repaint quality. W marks a panel that was repaired and repainted before. W1 is a minor repair wave with a light repaint, W2 a moderate wave with visible repaint, W3 a heavy wave and poor repaint quality.

Other letters you will meet: S for rust, C for corrosion, Y for cracks, B for faded or blemished paint, P for peeling paint and XX for a replaced panel.

Common damage codes at a glance

Code	What it means	What to do
A1 / A2 / A3	Scratch: small / medium / large or deep	A1 needs nothing, A2 polish or touch-up, A3 repaint
U1 / U2 / U3	Dent: small / medium / large	U1 often PDR, U2 filler or repaint, U3 bodywork and repaint
W1 / W2 / W3	Repair wave, repaint quality: minor / moderate / heavy	W1 usually fine, W2 check the panel, W3 expect a repaint
S1 / S2 / S3	Rust: minor spot / visible area / heavy	S1 cosmetic, S2 sanding and repaint, S3 panel repair or replacement
C1 / C2 / C3	Corrosion: light surface / noticeable / severe	C3 can be a structural risk — ask for photos
Y1 / Y2 / Y3	Crack: small / medium / large	Often bumpers or plastic trim; Y3 may mean a new part
B1 / B2 / B3	Paint fade or blemish: slight / noticeable / heavy	B3 needs a repaint
P	Paint peeling or flaking	Repaint required
XX	Panel replaced	Not automatically a structural repair — check which panel

Step-by-step: read the sheet in under a minute

1. Find the diagram. It is usually on the left side of the sheet: the car outline with codes written next to the panels.
2. Scan for letters. Start from the front and go around the car. Note every mark: A2, U1, W1, whatever appears.
3. Read the number as severity. 1 is small, 2 medium, 3 large. A few 1s are normal on a used car; several 3s add up to real repair money.
4. Check the grade and notes. The overall grade (like 3.5, 4, R) sits near the top. A car with a few A1 or A2 marks can still be grade 4. R and RA are about structural repair, not about scratches or a repainted door — so W or XX marks on outer panels don’t turn a car into an R by themselves.
5. Compare with photos. Before deposit, photos are blurred per auction rules. But you can still see the general shape. After deposit, you can request unmasked photos or an independent inspection. That’s when you confirm what the code really means.

Why W1 is different from A1

A1 is a light scratch that often needs nothing at all. U2 is a visible dent that may need filler or repaint, but it is still ordinary cosmetic work. W1 tells you something else: the panel was already repaired and repainted. W1 itself is minor — a light repair wave — and is common on clean cars without hurting the grade. W2 means visible repair and a slight price reduction. W3 means heavy repair with a poor finish, which often needs a repaint and may point to a past accident. That’s why experienced buyers treat W marks as a prompt to look closer, not as a dealbreaker.

If you’re bidding through a dealer program, your manager can usually flag these risks before you pay. At Carvector’s dealer program, for example, a personal manager screens each sheet and tells you which marks matter.

What the sheet does not tell you

The diagram only covers visible exterior damage. It doesn’t show mechanical condition, interior wear or hidden issues. The auction grade, the interior grade (A to D) and the inspector’s notes add context, but they still won’t tell you everything. That’s why the auction sheet translation tool is useful: it turns the Japanese notes into something you can actually read. Use it before you make a decision.

Also remember that the inspector has limited time per car. A clean diagram doesn’t mean a perfect car. It means no obvious exterior damage was noted. The rest is on you.

What to do when you see multiple codes

A car with three A1 marks and one U1 is often a good buy for a dealer who can polish out scratches cheaply. A car with W3, U3 and S3 is a different story. Don’t get scared by the number of marks alone — look at the letters and the numbers. Ten small 1-level marks might still mean a clean car. One W3 or C3 might mean expensive work. Use the table above to weigh the risk.

Also check the overall grade. A grade 4 car with a few A1–A2 codes is common. An XX on an outer panel doesn’t stop a car from being graded 3.5–4.5. A grade R or RA car has a confirmed repair on structural parts — pillars, inner panels, frame sections. That can be okay if the price reflects it, but you need to see photos.

Quick checklist before you bid

• Read every letter and number on the diagram, not just the grade.
• Flag any 3-level marks, W2–W3, S, C and XX for closer inspection.
• Request extra photos after deposit for any code that worries you.
• Calculate the full C&F cost before you commit. Use a C&F cost calculator with the car’s auction price to see the landed figure.
• Compare similar cars in auction sales statistics to judge if the price matches the condition.

FAQ

Are damage codes the same at every Japanese auction?

Not exactly, but they follow the same pattern: a letter for the type of damage and a number from 1 to 3 for severity. Some houses add their own marks. Always check the auction’s legend if it’s printed on the sheet, or ask your buyer or manager.

Can I trust an A1 mark?

Usually yes. A1 means a very small, light scratch. But inspectors are people: one inspector’s A1 might be another’s A2. Photos help. After deposit, you can get unmasked photos and judge for yourself.

How much does it cost to repair A1, U2 or W1 damage?

It depends on the location and paint. A1 often needs nothing; an A2 scratch might polish out for under €100. A U1 dent is often a PDR job; a U2 can be €100–€400 or more if filler and paint are needed. W1 usually needs no work at all, while a W3 panel may need a full repaint. Always get a local quote before bidding. These are rough ranges, not quotes.

Does XX mean the car was in a serious accident?

No. XX means the panel was replaced, and that does not automatically mean structural repair. If only an outer panel was replaced, the car can still be graded 3.5–4.5. Structural repair is shown by the overall grade R or RA.

What should I do if I see W1 on a car I want?

Don’t panic. W1 is a minor repair wave with a light repaint and is common on clean cars. With W2 or W3, request extra photos and, if possible, an independent inspection after deposit. If the repair is solid and the price reflects it, it can still be a good buy. If not, walk away. There are plenty of cars.

Get a free C&F cost calculation for the car you need, or open a dealer account at importjapancar.com.