How to read a Japanese auction sheet in 5 minutes
An auction sheet looks cryptic until you know where to look first. I have watched experienced dealers spend ten minutes on a sheet and novices spend ten seconds. The difference is not language; it is knowing the three places that matter most: the overall grade, the marks on the diagram, and the handwritten comments. Here is the five-minute read.
A grade 4 or higher is usually safe for resale. A grade 3.5 can work if you know your market. Below that, the price should already reflect the problems, otherwise you are not buying value, you are buying work.
But the overall grade is only about the body and structure. It does not tell you if the cabin smells like smoke or if the odometer has been altered. So the next step is the interior grade.
I have seen a grade 4 car with a C interior because the previous owner kept a dog in the back. The body was perfect, but the interior needed a deep clean and new rear seat. That is a real cost, and it is visible on the sheet if you look.
The exact letters vary slightly by auction house, but the logic is the same: one or two A1–A2 marks on doors or bumpers are normal; S3 or C3 on a roof or pillar is expensive. If you see a cluster of marks on the rear, assume a rear-end collision, even if the grade says 4.
Comments are also where you find non-standard damage. A grade 3.5 car with a comment "water stain on headliner" is very different from one with "underbody rust". Both can be auction grade 3.5, but the repair cost differs by thousands.
If you need more certainty, an independent inspection after deposit is possible, and some buyers order one on older cars or anything with an R grade. The cost is small compared with a wrong purchase.
This order takes five minutes once you have seen a few sheets. After that, you decide whether to bid, ask for more photos, or walk away.
If you are moving several cars, consider a dealer account. It gives you access to closed dealer-only platforms and a personal manager who can flag issues on auction sheets before you commit. Details on the dealer program. If you need to estimate landed cost, use the C&F cost calculator. Or get a free calculation for the car you need at importjapancar.com.
Start with the overall grade
The big number or letter in the top corner is the inspector's summary. Japanese auctions use number grades from 3 to 6 with half-steps, plus S for a practically new car and R or RA for structural repair history. The grade filters out 80% of cars before you check anything else.| Grade | What it means | Typical condition |
|---|---|---|
| S | Practically new | Registered but essentially new, usually under a few thousand km |
| 6 / 5 | Near new / excellent | Almost no visible imperfections, very low mileage |
| 4.5 | Very good | Very clean, minimal signs of use, often low mileage |
| 4 | Above average | Clean outside and inside, minor imperfections |
| 3.5 | Good used | Moderate cosmetic imperfections; replaced outer panels are allowed |
| 3 | Average used | Visible wear, may have several A2/U2 marks |
| R / RA | Structural repair history | R — repair or replacement on structural parts; RA — minor structural repair |
A grade 4 or higher is usually safe for resale. A grade 3.5 can work if you know your market. Below that, the price should already reflect the problems, otherwise you are not buying value, you are buying work.
But the overall grade is only about the body and structure. It does not tell you if the cabin smells like smoke or if the odometer has been altered. So the next step is the interior grade.
Check the interior grade letter
Most sheets show a second grade for the cabin: A, B, C, or D. A is excellent, very clean with minimal wear; B is good, normal wear for the age; C is worn, with visible wear or stains; D is poor, with heavy wear, damage or significant staining. If you see B or C next to a grade 4, the body is good but the cabin needs cleaning or repairs. That can be a margin opportunity, or a time sink, depending on your market.I have seen a grade 4 car with a C interior because the previous owner kept a dog in the back. The body was perfect, but the interior needed a deep clean and new rear seat. That is a real cost, and it is visible on the sheet if you look.
Read the car diagram marks
The line drawing of the car is where specifics live. Codes next to the panels tell you what the inspector found: the letter is the type of damage, the number is severity from 1 (small) to 3 (large). Common marks:- A1–A3 — scratch, from barely visible to deep
- U1–U3 — dent, from tiny to strong with deformation
- W1–W3 — repair wave and repaint quality, from light to poor
- S1–S3 — rust; C1–C3 — corrosion
- Y1–Y3 — crack, often on a bumper or plastic trim
- B1–B3 — faded or blemished paint; P — peeling paint
- XX — panel replaced (not automatically a structural repair)
The exact letters vary slightly by auction house, but the logic is the same: one or two A1–A2 marks on doors or bumpers are normal; S3 or C3 on a roof or pillar is expensive. If you see a cluster of marks on the rear, assume a rear-end collision, even if the grade says 4.
Read the handwritten comments
The inspector writes the details the diagram cannot show: "underbody rust", "odometer discrepancy", "interior smell", "front bumper cracked". This is where the real story emerges. If you cannot read Japanese, use a machine translation tool as a first pass. Auction sheet translation tools get most of the standard terms right, but they miss context. Always ask your agent to confirm anything that changes the price.Comments are also where you find non-standard damage. A grade 3.5 car with a comment "water stain on headliner" is very different from one with "underbody rust". Both can be auction grade 3.5, but the repair cost differs by thousands.
Verify mileage and equipment
The sheet shows the odometer reading and a note about whether it is actual or not guaranteed. Japanese odometer tampering is rare today, but "not guaranteed" means the auction house does not certify the reading. That is your warning to verify before bidding. Equipment codes are usually listed in a small box; compare them with the car you think you are buying. Air conditioning, power windows, navigation language — these matter for resale in your market.Where auction sheets fall short
An auction sheet is a one-page summary written by one inspector in about five minutes. It is not a mechanical inspection, and it is not a guarantee. At many auctions, clear photos are only available after you place a deposit. That means the sheet and the blurred photos are your only information before you commit.An auction sheet is the best five-minute opinion you can get on a car in Japan. It is not a promise.
If you need more certainty, an independent inspection after deposit is possible, and some buyers order one on older cars or anything with an R grade. The cost is small compared with a wrong purchase.
The five-minute checklist
- Look at the overall grade: above 4? move on. Below 3.5? stop unless the price reflects it.
- Check the interior letter: B or better for resale.
- Scan the diagram for X, S, Y marks on structural areas.
- Read the handwritten comments for words like rust, smell, odometer, water.
- Check mileage and equipment against your market.
This order takes five minutes once you have seen a few sheets. After that, you decide whether to bid, ask for more photos, or walk away.
If you are moving several cars, consider a dealer account. It gives you access to closed dealer-only platforms and a personal manager who can flag issues on auction sheets before you commit. Details on the dealer program. If you need to estimate landed cost, use the C&F cost calculator. Or get a free calculation for the car you need at importjapancar.com.
FAQ
What does auction grade R mean?
R means confirmed repair or replacement on structural body parts — pillars, inner panels, frame sections. RA means a minor structural repair with limited deformation. Neither is automatically a bad buy, but you need to inspect the repair quality and price accordingly.Can I read a Japanese auction sheet without knowing Japanese?
Yes, with a translation tool and a list of standard codes. The overall grade, interior grade, and diagram marks are consistent. Handwritten comments need careful translation.Are auction sheets always accurate?
No. Inspectors can miss things, and some damage appears only after the car is in use. Treat the sheet as a first filter, not a guarantee.What is the difference between the auction sheet and an inspection report?
The auction sheet is a quick summary by the auction house inspector. An independent inspection is a longer, paid check by a third party. You usually order one after a deposit if you want more confidence.26.09.2026